Boot and shoe and method of making the same



Nev. 27, 1928. 1,693,542

5. R. BLAKELY BOOT AND SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Nov. 21, 1927 2 Sheets-Sheet l Nov. 27, 1928. 11,693,542

5. R. BLAKELY BOOT AND SHOE AND METHOD MAKING THE SAME 'l atentecl Nov. 27, 1928;

nnirsn stares eeann SIDNEY R. BLAKELY, 0F JAIWITAICA PLAIN, MASSACHUSETTS.

BOOT AND SHOE AND MEJEOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

Application filed November 21, 1927. Serial Ila-234,728;

My present inventionrelates to boots and shoes, and more particularly to boots or shoes of the McKay type, and includes a novel method of manufacturing same.

An important object of the present invention is the production of a McKay shoe in which a heel cushion is applied to the inner heel seat of the shoe, thus necessitating having a portion of the insole free of stitches, nailing, or other securing means, in order 'to permit the said cushion to be inserted 'after the shoe is otherwise completed.

A further and important object of th said invention is to continue the through and throughstitching past the line of the heel breast of the shoe and well into the heel portion, which results in a much stronger, more durable, and longer wearing shoe, since the heel portion of a shoe, particularly at the heel breast, is one of the weak points'in a shoe. I amenabled to obt-ain this desirable 7 result in an insole constructed and arranged to permit the through and through stitching to be continued past the line of the heel breast but without penetrating the said insole beyond said line leaving the rear or heel portion of the insole free to be raised to permit the application or insertionofthe heel cushion above referred to. l accomplish this desirable result by slitting or cutting the insole from each side thereof, point forward of the 'heelbreast, thus enabling the sides of the insole rearwardly of the said cuts to be upturned at the time of applying the through and through stitching, in order that the saidstitching may continue beyond the line of the cuts on the insole and well into the heel portion of the shoe.

A further object of the invention is the provision of an outsole, which is constructed by cutting away the peripheral edge of the said outsole around the heel and inwardly fora predetermined distance. The remaining portion of the heel of the ontsole is then beveled, to provide a filler for the hollow shoe-engaging surface of heels to'be applied the outer breast corners or" the OUtSOlObSlDg cut substantially straight, to afford abut-- ments for the corresponding breast corners plained, viz., with the slits or cuts formed therein forwardly of the heel breast. I then apply this insole to a last, preferably formed with an accentuated convexity on too heel seatportion thereof. The insole is first temporarily secured to the last by usuallastng tacks and then a heel clinching plate is ten'iporarily affixed over'the insole at the heel portion. Over the insole and clinching plate is then applied a heel and shank piece, preferably of leather or the like, which is permanently secured to the insole at the shank portion, and temporarily secured at the heel portion. The upper materials are then lasted over the thus assembled insole, clinching plate, and heel and shank piece, and secured thereto by lasting tacks or staples 7 1n the usual manner; Then my outsole, already prepared, is applied to the thus assembled shoe and temporarily secured thereto. The last and clinching plate are then withdrawn and through and through stitching applied, running completely around the forepart and shank of the shoe and well into the heel portion past the heel breast, the edges of the insole rearwardly of the aforesaid cuts being upturncdso that the said edges will be free of the said stitching. 'lhe heel is then applied, a heel cushion or support inserted between the insole and the heel piece, and the insole turned down and the shoe is then completed.

if desired, 1 may utilize a metallic or other shank stiffener, applying this to the shoe over the shank and heel piece. Usual shoe bottom filler will also, of course, be utilized.

I believe that a boot or shoe constructed according to the brief description above is novel and have therefore claimed the same broadly herein.

I also believe that the process of manufacturing these boots or shoes is novel, and the said process is also claimed herein.

I further believe that the combination and arrangement of the insole and the outsole de scribed herein are novel, and both of these elements are included in" the claims in the present application.

lhe above and furtherfeatures of the invention, deta1ls, combinations, and advan- 2; out and claimed;

t 'es, will be hereinafter more fully pointed Referring to the drawings, illustrating a preferred embodiment of the present invention,

Fig. 1 is a perspective View of my novel prepared insole;

Fig.2 is aside elevation of the said insole and a clinching plate assembled on a last;

Fig. 3 is a perspective View of the heel and shank piece;

Fig. 4 is a side elevation similar to Fig. 2 with the heel and shank piece assembled with the insole and clinching plate; I

Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view on the lin of Fig. l, but with the upper materials assembled onthe last;

"Fig. 6 is alongitudinal s ctional view of the shoe assembled on the last with the outso-le applied;

Fig. 7 is a perspective View of'the shoe with the through and through stitching ap plied andillustrating the novel construction oft-he outsole;

Fig. 8 is aperspective of theinner heel portion of the shoe, illustrating the method otturning up the edges the insole to per mitt-he through and'through stitchingto continue past the breast portion;

9 is a longitudinal sectional View of the heelfportion oi the completed shoe; and

1011s a cross-sectional view on the line 1010 ofFig. '9.

"Referring now to the drawings for a complete description of the invention, and the preferred method of carrying out the same, lldesignates my novel insole in which I term a pair. of'slits or cutslQ, extending inwardly from the sides ofthe insole and forwardly of the-heel breast portion thereol". Thus, the edged?) may be turned upwardly as a flap, avoiding the through and through stitching when same is applied, and-leaving the heel. portion Plot said insole free to be lifted from the :heel of the shoe.

This insole is first positioned on a last and temporarily secured thereto by last tacks, such-as 16, a clinching plate 17 being positioned=-over the insole at the heel portion of the shoe and temporarily secured to the last by a tack 19 extending through the aperture 18 in the plate, as well through the insole.

To the thus assembled insole lland clinching plate 17, I apply a sl ank and heel piece 20, preferably of leather or equ' alent ma terial, permanently securing this piece 20 to the insole by staples 21 or the like, and temiorarlly securing the said piece 20 to the last by tacks 22 and 23, the tack 23 extending);

through the-piece 20, and through the aperture 181 in. the clinchingplate 17. Ti lie tech 23 may take the place, if desired. of the tack 19, it not being essential to utilize both of thesestacks, sincet-hey will be in approximately the-same location.

To the shoe materials as thus far assembled, I then apply the upper materials designated generally at 2% which are pulled over and lasted in the usual manner, preferably by staples around the forepart and shank, and by nails 25 or other suitable securing devices, thenails being clinched against the plate lTwithout penetrating the insole oi he shoe, but being secured through the shank and heel piece 20.

The tackslG, 19, :22 and'23 are then withdrawn and usual shoe bot om tiller 26 applied to'iill the shoe bottom cavity created by the edges of the lasted upper materials 2 If desired, 1 may then apply a suitable shank stiil ener 37, otiinctal or other suitable or desir-able material extending from na point in the heel oi? the shoe for "211 l y along the shank and longitudinal arch portion of the shoe.

My novel outsole 28, already, prepared, is then applied to the shoe and ten'iporarily secured thereto by tacks I prepare this outsole by cutting away the peripheral edge of the heel, from the heel breast forwardly, and inwardly r'or a, predetermined distance. The remaining portion 30 ofthe heel ot-the outsole is then beveled, as shown at 31, substantially straight edges being -left at the outer heel breast corners 32, to provide abutments tor the corresponding breast corners of the heel to be later applied. I

The last 15 is then withdrawn from the shoe, the clinching plate 17 removed, and through and through stitching" 33 is applie I carrying this stitching past the heel breast and well into the heel of the shoe, as shown at 34}, thus providing an extremely strong;- jointure at this portion or the shoe, which portion has heretofore heenth'e cause oi annoyance due to the weakness thereof. In order to continue this stitching past the breast portion and into the heel, while-atthe same time leaving the insole fi-ee efthe stitching froin the cuts 12 rearwardlyfi turn up the fin p 13 while the through and through stitching is being applied.

The shoe is now ready for the application of the heel 35, which maybe and preferably is in the present instance, formed oi wood, with a deeply cupped heel seat enga ii'w" sur- This heel has a lift face on. 37, and is attached to the shoe, preferably by nails driven into the heel "from the inside of the shoes From an inspection ot l 10 it wil be seen that theportion 30 o the outsole forms ideal filler for the cup 36 in the heel The heel portion 14; of the insole, is, of course, raised during the heel nailing operation, the heel "nails penetrating the heel and shank piece 20 and outsole 28, bein sp- 1'01 i 1, e H i "i frr Q '2 p L( ai er 1 side or re snank stir cn r 4, or through the same if means is provided for such application. Subsequent to theheel nailing and attaching operation, apply,

over the heel and shank piece 20,vand under the heel portion 14:01 the insole 1.1, a cushion or heel pad 39, which may be adherct it deover the heel portion of said insole, a

sired, to the said heel piece 20.; This heel cushion or pad is constructed to. lit mto the deep cup in the heel formed by the construction of the shoe'on a last with an extremely convened heel surface, and forms a perfect rest for the heel of the wearer. The heel portion 14: of the insole is then lowered into position over the cushion or pad 39, and may be adhered thereto, if desired, or it may be left free, it not being of suliicient length to cause excessive wrinkling or discomfort to the wearer.

It will thus be appreciated that T have de vised a novel shoe of the McKay type, as well as a novel method of manufacturing same, and that the insole and outsole described herein are also both novel, and represent distinct steps forward in the art of making McKay boots or shoes.

l l hile l have necessarily described my present invention somewhat in detail, it will be appreciated that I may vary the size,shape and arrangement of parts within reasonably wide limits, without departing from the spirit of the invention.

My invention is further described in the form of claims as follows:

1. A h IcKay' shoe comprising an insole. a shank and heel piece under said insole, up per materials, an outsole and heel, said outsole bein secured by through and through stitching to said upper materials, shank and heel piece and insole rearwardly to a point forward of the heel breast, and rearwardly from said point to the heel breast to the upper materials and heel and shank piece only, said insole being free of said stitching from said point rearwardly, said stitching, from the heel breast rearwardly for a predetermined distance, uniting the upper materials and shank and heel piece only, and a reduced beveled portion of said outsole acting as a filler for the seat of said heel.

2. The improved method of manufacturing McKay shoes, which comprises providing an insole with a pair of slits extending inwardly from the sides of said insole forwardly of the breast portion, applying said insole to a last, securing a clincl plate taching a shank and heel piece over-said plate and insole, lasting upper materials over the insole, clinching plate and shank and heel piece, turning up the edges of said insole rearwa-rdly of said slits, attaching n outsole by through and through stitching continuing beyond the breast of the shoe and for a predetermined distance into the heel, said insole being free of said stitching from said slits rcarwardly because of its upturned edges. 7

8. The improved method of manufacturing McKay shoes, which comprises providing an nsole with a pair of slits extending inwardly from the sides of said insole forwardly of the breast portion, applying said insole to a last, securing a clinching plate over the heel portion of said insole, attaching a shank and heel piece Over said plate and insole, lasting upper materials over the insole, clinching plate and in McKay shoes, which comprises providing an insole with a pair of slits extending inwardly from the sides of said insole forwardly of the breast portion, applying said insole to a last, securing a clinching plate over the heel portion of said insole, a taching a shank and heel piece over said plate and insole, lasting upper materials over the insole, clinching plate and shank and heel piece, applying an outsole, withdrawing the last and clinching plate, turning up the edge of said insole rearwardly of said slits, applying through and through stitching through said outsole, upper materials, heel and shank piece and insole as far as the said slits, and rearwardly from that point through the outsole, upper materials and shank and heel piece, and attaching a heel from the inside of the shoe.

5. The improved method of manufacturing McKay shoes, which comprises providing an insole with a pair of slits extending inwardly from the sides of said insole forwardly of the breast portion, applying said insole to a last, securing a clinching plate over the heel portion of said insole, attaching a shank and heel piece over said plate and insole, lasting upper materials over the insole, clinching plate and shank and heel piece, providing an outsole, forming the heel of said outsole to act as a filler for the seat of a heel, applying said outsole, withdrawing the last and clinching plate, turning up the edge of said insole rearwardly of said slits, and applying through and through stitching through said outsole, upper materials, heel and shank piece and insole as far as the said slits and rearwardly from that point through the outsole, upper materials and shank and heel piece, and attaching a heel from the inside of the shoe.

6. The improved method of manufacturing McKay shoes, which comprises providing an insole with a pair of slits extending inwardly from the sides of said insole forwardly of the breast portion, applying said insole to a last, securing a clinching plate over the heel portion of said insole, attaching a shank and heel piece over saidplate and insole, lasting upper materials over the insole, clinching plate and shank and heel piece, providing an outsole, cutting away the peripheral edge of the said lit) wardly from that point through the eutsele, 10

upper materials and shank and heel piece, and attaching a heel from the inside of the shoe, the breast corners of said heel abutting against said breastcorners on said outsole.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my 15 name to this specification.

SIDNEY R. 'BLAKELY. 

